How a method gets written, in plain terms.

§ The protocol · v.4.2

01 — Cook it three times

Different days, different stoves where possible. The recipe that survives three different kitchens is the one that gets the byline.

02 — Weigh, don't measure

Grams everywhere; volume only where weight is impractical. Percentages on bread and brines. The reader can do the math.

03 — Two times, separately

"Active" is what the recipe asks of you. "Total" is when dinner lands. Both, every time.

04 — Cross-reference

Each method links to the ingredients in the Pantry Atlas, and to the techniques it depends on. The catalogue is a graph, not a list.

01

The Index

The Index.

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· Continuing series ·

Methods, plural.

Some techniques are too big for a single page. These are the ones we keep coming back to, in numbered installments.

Series 014 parts

Bread.

  1. 01Sourdough boule, 24-hour cold proof
  2. 02What a crumb remembers about hydration
  3. 03Focaccia, the everyday loaf
  4. 04Pan stretto, the Roman one
All 4 parts →
Series 025 parts

Stocks.

  1. 01Dashi, three-tier
  2. 02Parm-rind broth, 24 hours
  3. 03Chicken bone, 6 hours
  4. 04Mushroom dashi, vegan
  5. 05Court bouillon, 20 minutes
All 5 parts →
Series 033 parts

Olive Oil.

  1. 01Olive-oil cake with rosemary
  2. 02Tomato confit, 90 min at 95°
  3. 03Bagna càuda, after Asti
All 3 parts →
Series 043 parts

The 0.9%.

  1. 01Brining a whole chicken
  2. 02Curing salmon, three days
  3. 03Wet brine vs dry brine
All 3 parts →
02

On these recipes

6 questions · answered

How recipes get tested, why we weigh, and what the catalogue is — and isn't — for.

If I cook it more than four times in a year, or I find myself emailing the technique to friends, it gets written up. The aim isn't novelty — it's the dishes I've cooked enough to trust the measurements on.